Haenyeo Women Divers, Jeju Island and the Snoopy Gardens
Jeju Island, Korea, has been on our minds since we learned about the Haenyeo women divers, a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Since the 17th Century, women have free-dived to harvest abalone, sea orchids, octopus, and other seafood from the ocean floor. The art and culture are dying out as the women are aging, the younger generation chooses safer occupations, and easier ways to harvest seafood are developed. We were determined to see the divers, even if it was just a demonstration. The activity is weather-dependent, and there was no guarantee. Happily, after several attempts over four days, we succeeded.
The Snoopy Gardens, the rugged and gorgeous shorelines, and abalone were also a part of the adventure.
We touched down in mid-April to steady rain, prompting us to wonder why we did not pack umbrellas. For the record, we checked the weather forecast before we left Singapore, so rain wasn’t a surprise. We solved the problem by buying Snoopy umbrellas at the Snoopy Garden. To keep our journey eco-friendly, we rented an electric car for our circumnavigation of the island. Not only did we slash our carbon footprint, but bypassing the gas pumps proved to be a massive win for our wallets!
Here is how we spent 4 days and 5 nights in this volcanic wonderland.
The Haenyeo Women Divers Museum and Snoopy Garden
We decided to navigate the island in a clockwise manner, starting with the Snoopy Garden. Reggie is a huge Peanuts fan, and Snoopy Garden was one of the reasons we visited Jeju Island.
The Snoopy Garden is a massive 20-acre paradise and an absolute must-visit for any Peanuts fan. After dodging the drizzle with some hot drinks at the Snoopy Café and grabbing a couple of souvenir umbrellas, we braved the outdoors. Even the rain could not wipe the smiles off our faces. The garden features five distinct themed zones packed with life-sized figures of Snoopy, Charlie Brown, Lucy, and Woodstock. Walking through the lush grounds felt exactly like stepping right into a classic Charles Schulz comic strip! It was fun to hang out with our favorite icons and pretend to be part of a Charles Schulz comic strip.
Haenyeo Women Divers Museum
Since it was still raining, we drove to the Haenyeo Museum on the east coast. The museum tells the history of the ancient Haenyeo women’s diving culture. The video clips of interviews with the women divers were interesting to watch. We also viewed a replica of a Haenyeo home. The lives, struggles, and bravery of the women divers impacted us greatly. After the museum, we braved the rain again to find the changing area where the women divers had prepared for their dives.
While the stormy weather canceled the live diving performances for the day, wandering the historic beachside changing area outside the museum gave us a deep appreciation for their resilience. In addition, we learned where to call to find out if they would be diving the next day.
A Taste of Jeju
You can’t visit Jeju without indulging in the local culinary scene: fresh seafood, black pork, and other specialties. For lunch, we tucked into a comforting bowl of rich sea urchin soup and perfectly grilled mackerel at Haewas Restaurant.
Foodie Tip: Jeju is world-famous for two things: fresh abalone and black pork.
For dinner, we headed into town to treat ourselves to a sizzling, savory grilled pork feast.
Volcanic Peaks and the Haenyeo Women: Second Try
Scaling Sunrise Peak (Seongsan Ilchulbong)
We woke up crossing our fingers for clear skies, but the rain persisted. Undeterred, we geared up to climb Seongsan Ilchulbong (Sunrise Peak) to see the breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage tuff cone.
The site offers two paths: a free trail leading down to the Haenyeo women divers’ cove where they perform, and a paid trail leading straight to the summit. We opted for the steeper, paid trail to see the massive crater basin where the volcano collapsed into itself. Trust us—the panoramic views from the top are worth every single step and every penny of the entrance fee!
Then we went down to the cove to see if there would be a diving performance. Alas, there was not. Instead, we had a wonderful bowl of abalone porridge served at the small restaurant at the cove. Outside, women were selling and shelling abalone and sea urchin straight from the sea.
Exploring Seogwipo: Canola Fields and Jeongbang Waterfalls
Driving south in the gray rain, the landscape was occasionally brightened by a sea of vibrant, golden yellow canola flowers in full bloom—a quintessential Jeju springtime sight. We also had an unexpected sighting of a flock of beautiful grey herons. We had to stop for photos. Grey herons are solitary birds, so it was an unusual sight. Our next stop was the famous Jeongbang Waterfall, unique in Asia for cascading directly into the ocean. While low tide made the falls a bit less dramatic than expected, the coastal drive more than made up for it.
Rugged Shorelines and Dragon-Shaped Cliffs
Cheonjiyeon Waterfall: The Triple-Tiered Wonder
We started our third day near Cheonjiyeon Waterfall, a spectacular triple-tiered cascade framed by lush greenery. Unlike the previous day, this waterfall absolutely stole the show!
The Dramatic Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliffs
A short drive brought us to one of our favorite sights of the trip: the Daepo Jusangjeolli Cliffs. As a bonus, the sun came out for about an hour, making the view even more stunning. The hexagonal basalt rock columns were formed thousands of years ago when glowing lava cooled rapidly against the crashing ocean waves. The dramatic volcanic basalt rock turned into incredible column formations. The sheer force of the tide hitting the dark stone structures is nature’s architecture at its finest.
Sanbangsan Mountain & Yongmeori Coast
After a heavy and delicious lunch of thick-cut grilled black pork at Geuttaegeujip restaurant, we drove towards Sanbangsan Mountain along the Yongmeori Coast to see stunning sandstone cliffs that look like a dragon’s head diving into the water.
Unfortunately, we couldn’t get too close to the intricate layers of rock. Due to strong winds, the rangers closed the boardwalk to the rocks. However, we saw the panorama of sandstone cliffs by climbing up to Sanbangsan Bomunsa (Temple) across the road.
The Legendary Haenyeo Women Divers, At Last!
It was now day 4 of our five-day trip, and we had yet to catch a glimpse of the Haenyeo women divers. We had called the number on our second day. The woman on the phone hung up after saying something very quickly in Korean.
On the third day, we called again. Again, in Korean, and we were told maybe today–call back at 1 (the demonstration takes place at 2 pm). We debated changing our plans for the day and driving across the island. That would have meant missing the Sanbangsan Mountain & Yongmeori Coast. We decided to stick with the plan. We had one more day when it would be possible. Day 5 was not possible because our flight was too early to see the divers. That left day 4 as the last possible day.
Finally, day 4 was upon us—our last chance. We dialed the number and held our breath. Again, a Korean-speaking woman. Not so abrupt this time. She managed to communicate that they would be diving. We were so excited. The weather gods smiled upon us.
We dashed across the island for a quick and delicious abalone lunch at Myeongjin Junboek Abalone Restaurant. The abalone was fresh and grilled to perfection. Then back to the cove at Seongsan Ilchulbong.
We watched in awe as four legendary Haenyeo women divers in wetsuits performed traditional songs and dances before moving towards the water. With baskets, skill, and history, they plunged into the chilly bay. Before long, one of the divers emerged triumphant, holding two freshly caught octopuses to the cheers of the crowd. Witnessing this living history in action was the highlight of our trip.
Back to Sunny Singapore!
With our hearts full of memories, our phones and cameras full of volcanic vistas, and our bellies full of incredible seafood, we hopped back into our trusty EV and headed to the airport for our flight back to sunny Singapore. Jeju Island proved to be the ultimate short getaway—an island of myth, magic, and unforgettable flavor!
| Day | Highlight Sights | Must-Try Eats |
| Day 1 | Snoopy Garden, Haenyeo Museum | Mackerel & Sea Urchin Soup |
| Day 2 | Seongsan Ilchulbong, Canola Fields | Grilled Cutlass Fish & Abalone Stew |
| Day 3 | Jusangjeolli Cliffs, Sanbangsan Temple | Thick-cut Grilled Black Pork |
| Day 4 | Live Haenyeo Diving Performance | Fresh Catch of the Day |
For more of our wet and water adventures, check out these posts:
Have we inspired you to go to Jeju Island? Please leave us a comment and sahre.
